The best ways to Set up a Power Attic Vent: Wired and Solar Powered Fans Remove Hot Air and Lessen Hazardous Mold

As a caveat, it must be kept in mind that ridge vents with baffles are more efficient in using unfavorable air pressure and several power vents integrate a thermostat and humidistat. Eliminating humidity from the attic is also crucial to the health of the home and household; it decreases the possibility of mildew and hazardous mold.

House Power VS Solar Power Attic Vents

These are the two types of attic and roof ventilation gadgets considered in this post. The home powered ones merely tie into an available electrical circuit. Clearly, the solar-powered fans use a little solar panel to power them up.

2 elements to think about are expense of use and the desire to stick to the green house structure concept. Solar energy powered vents are trendy, hip, and planet-friendly.

Solar units are costly-- although the expense has actually come down, still anticipate to spend $200 - $300.

Home-powered ones cost much less money to run than they conserve in utility expenses.
Solar panels only run while the sun shines.

Determine the Proper Size Fan

Attic vent fans are rated at CFM (Cubic Feet of air moved per Minute). To figure out the size for a particular home, first determine the attic's square footage. Remember asking the high school algebra instructor, "Aw, when will we ever truly use this stuff?" Well, this is "when.".


Multiply the square video footage by 0.7; this will give the CFM fan rating. For instance, for a 2000 square foot attic area, 2000 X 0.7 = 1400 CFM.

Locate the Best Vent Setting.

Heat rises, so the vent should lie near to the roofing system ridge. Locate the center of the house with regard to left and. This is around where it must lie. Shift it slightly best or left as needed to place it in between rafters.

The hole will be cut directly from the outside of the roofing but the rafter area is only visible from the interior. The very best way to fix this little conflict is making a card board design template of the throat of the vent. With any luck this will be best on package.
Hold it versus the sheathing from below (inside the attic) and own 4 nails up through the roofing system (top, bottom, left, and right).

Cut the Vent Replacement Hole.

Utilizing the nails and the template as a guide, utilize an energy knife to cut away the shingles and roof felt.

When the knife slips, hint-- Using gloves will conserve knuckle skin. And it will slip, make no error about it!
Now, use a jigsaw or sawzall reciprocating saw to cut out the sheathing.
Keep in mind-- All cutting can be finished with the jigsaw, however the blade will have the tendency to dull quickly, and the heat from the friction on the shingles will fill and melt up the teeth with asphalt.

Install the Vent.

Remove the dome from the vent.

Apply caulk kindly to the bottom of the flange.

Clean Pro Gutter Cleaning Chicago IL Find the side of the flange that checks out "Up".
Slip the flange up under the shingles.
Nail the flange down with roofing nails.
The "up" side of the flange will be below the shingles, the "down" side will lay on top of the shingles.
Apply roof cement freely to all nail heads and anywhere water may make an entrance.

This is no time to be quite; it won't be seen from the ground.
Replace the dome.
Wire up the fan motor inning accordance with producer's directions and local electrical structure codes.
The thermostat needs to be set on 90 degrees. This will cause the fan to spin at 120 degrees and power down at 90.

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